Varsity Inn: New Mexican Dinner Menu

Last week, lower Wallingford’s own Varsity Inn debuted a new Mexican dinner menu — and I find myself wishing I were a real restaurant reviewer so I could do them justice. Best meal I’ve had in ages.  Succulent meat, fresh grilled vegetables, mature seasonings, a superb tortilla soup… wow.

Here’s a list from the new dinner menu:

• Steamed Mediterranean Mussels with homemade chorizo, onions, garlic, jalapenos, herbs
• An amazing Mole (half chicken with rice & beans)
• Carnitas Estilo San Luis — slow cooked pork tenderloin with tomatillo jalapeno salsa, rice & beans
• Carne Asada marinated in cerveza and spices, with roasted potatoes, scallions, and Poblano pepper guac
• Prawns sauteed with red peppers, garlic, shrooms, onions, served with rice & beans
• Veggie enchiladas with salsa de mole, rice & beans (and yeah, vegans can order it without cheese with great results!)

The tortillas & chips, salsas… everything is homemade and tastes like it’s made with love.  Especially the light & fluffy tres leches cake which manages not to be cloyingly sweet or densely heavy, but still heavenly.  And the beans!  These perfectly textured, mild black beans even out-shine Paseo.  And that’s sayin’ something.

So what’s up with the Mexican food at our favorite greasy spoon? “We’ll be staying open for early dinners  now, to serve homemade Mexican food from Rogelio’s family recipes,” said co-0wner and friendliest waitress in town, Patty .  Rogelio (head cook and co-owner) is introducing Wallingford to his family’s recipes from the San Luis Potosi region in Mexico. You can feel the “family” in the food.  What a wonderful surprise this menu is — just superb.

When I tried it out with 3 friends, we all used the word “best” in one way or another, to describe our meals:

• Best Mexican food since I lived in Texas.
• Best mole I’ve had– even better than my own.  (And the guy who said that is a great cook!)
• Best tortilla soup ever!!
• Best flavors & freshest meat I’ve had in the ‘hood.

Varsity Inn is also serving Spanish wines, Northwest wines, Mexican beer, mainstream beer, mimosas (yea!) and bloody marys made with sake to go with the new dinner menu.

About the Varsity Inn: There’s a reason this place is so loved by neighbors — it’s homey & welcoming.  The original Varsity Inn was in Ravenna, but a second location opened at 34th & Wallingford Ave NE in 1995.  Patty and Rogelio bought the Wallingford location in 1999 — and they’ve turned it into an “extended family business.” Rogelio’s family comprises the kitchen staff while Patty’s mom and son pitch in on the weekends bussing tables.

“Our customers are our family, too,” Patty says.  “We’re a safe haven for people in the neighborhood.  People come in to be nurtured in other ways [not just food].”

The Varsity Inn serves up huge breakfasts & hot yummy lunches 7 days a week.  They have big breakfast combos, pancakes, eggs, omelettes, hash browns, steaks & eggs, french toast… the whole breakfast shebang served anytime they’re open.

Lunches include hot sandwiches, fries, salads, burgers, and other lunchtime must-haves.  Yum, yum!  And now they’ve got daily Mexican lunch specials too.

So, the old rumor I heard, that the Varsity Inn is the best cure for a hangover?  “Oh yeah,” Patty says.  “And morning sickness.  Pregnant women rave about our biscuits and gravy!”   Frankly, I think everybody should rave about those biscuits and gravy — and the mimosas to wash ’em down.

Visit the Varsity Inn at 34th & Wallingford, straight down Wallingford Ave from the QFC til the road ends.  Dinner served Tue – Sat:

• Sunday 8am – 3pm
• Monday 7am-3pm
• 7am – 9pm Tuesday through Friday
• Saturday 8am -9pm

To paraphrase Tina Fey’s Liz Lemon, You Want To Go To There.

P.S.  Just to clarify, breakfast is served any time — you can have your pancakes for dinner if the scent of delicious Mexican food doesn’t change your mind.

Updated to correct dinner hours.  Dinners are served Tuesday through Saturday.