(In a rare turn, we’re treated this week to a local cookbook review from the wonderful Mrs. Wallyhood.)
I’m not a writer, I usually leave that up to Mr. Wallyhood. I’m not a professional chef, either, though I have had a few stints in kitchens. And I’m certainly not a book reviewer. But a health issue a few years ago did force me onto a gluten-free (and soy-free, dairy-free, egg-free, you-name-it-free) diet. I tasted its challenges, its limitations, feeling left out, actually missing out – both food and socially.
At the time there wasn’t much available on the market shelves that was clean of all those ingredients (and even slimmer pickings dining out). Now, it seems that in Seattle, as least, the options are growing, in large part thanks to the efforts of the Flying Apron Bakery. Their gluten-free, vegan baked goods are available in coffee shops, Famers’ Markets and, of course, in their Fremont-based cafe.
But what’s a home baker to do? Never fear, Jennifer Katzinger, the chef-owner of the Flying Apron, has published a gluten-free cookbook, so we can enjoy these treats hot from our oven: Flying Apron’s Gluten-Free and Vegan Baking Book.
When I read a cookbook, the first thing I do is check the pictures. It helps give me a quick sense of what types of food the cookbook is going to offer (and, when it comes to odd diets like gluten-free, helps reassure me that the food isn’t going to be “weird”).
This one, I read cover to cover, eyes widening, mouth watering, the beautiful pictures promising that this food WILL taste good.
I took the author’s advice and read each chapter’s intro and was glad I did: they’re full of special tips and techniques that are pertinent to using these less common ingredients. For example, when working with gluten-free pie dough, you don’t have to worry about overworking it (a common pitfall with standard dough), since the trouble-making gluten is absent.
Still, I was worried. What if the substituted ingredents were cruel imposters? Eek! Can I dare lose precious free time making something that might be less than delicious?
For my first foray into the book, I had been thinking about a healthy morning muffin, hearty and moist, so I gave the Carrot Muffins a go. The ingredients were eyebrow lifting (rice flour, garbanzo flour, agave syrup), but the results were just as promised in the text: “This is a hearty high-fiber muffin that you’ll feel good about indulging in. The burst of sweetness from the raisins, the moistness of the carrots, the crunch of the walnuts and the texture and nuttiness from the coconut meet my every sensory need in a muffin!”
My muffins did come out a bit crumbly due in part to the lack of eggs and in part to my failure to adhere strictly to Katzinger’s instructions to blend slowly (which broke down the binding agents).
I do love to bake, but my mouth waters for savory over sweet. With golden beets in my fridge, the Sweet Golden Beets with Toasted Pecans and Currants was a no-brainer. Most of the ingredients you can guess from the name (beets, pecans, currants, kale), but the twist was the maple syrup in the dressing. Wow! I made it twice because I just couldn’t get enough. (OK, I made it the second time because I was going to a potluck at the house of a chef and wanted to make an impression).
While many of the ingredients might be hard to come by in a small town, living in Seattle, none were a problem to find. And fortunately for those who live further out, Katzinger lists Internet and mail order sources for many of her more unusual ingredients.
The layout is attractive and the writing is easy to read. My only complaint is that the instructions often lump several steps into a single, unbroken paragraph, making it more difficult to break down and follow.
Next up: Flying Apron’s Old Fashioned Apple Pie.
We need more cupcake places. There are not enough. I’m serious.
As a gluten-free person and a gluten-free baker, I am so disappointed in the Flying Apron Bakery and their cookbook. As are everyone in the gluten-free community that I have spoken with. They are vegan first, gluten-free second, although they advertise as gluten-free as their primary thing. Their baked goods are not very good because of the restrictions imposed by veganism (although the owners are very nice), and their baked goods have gone a long way to give gluten-free baked goods a bad reputation. All of my friends who have eaten their products come away thinking all gluten-free baked goods are gross. They aren’t! It’s just if you adhere to gluten-free and vegan, you are compromising quality in the extreme. So sad.
If you’re vegan due to allergies and happen to be wheat allergic or gluten intolerant, then Flying Apron is the place for you. If you are gluten-intolerant and aren’t vegan, don’t bother with Flying Apron goods–they are awful.